Shawarma is one of my favourite foods anyway, but going to the land of shawarma, to the restaurant that has absolutely mastered the art of creating it, and indulging was one of the most satisfying experiences of my life.
BASTERMO MANO ladies and gentlemen! This phenomenal shawarma shop has been serving the good people of Beirut since 1966. In that time, they’ve really been able to perfect their wraps.
The amazing thing about Beirut is its diversity. The city is almost split into a number of sections, each offering a unique culture. Head ‘downtown’, and you’ll come across the famed Zaitunay Bay falling in northern Beirut. This is the upmarket, Dubaiesque part of the city. If you head west, you’ll come across the hustle and bustle of Hamra, a thriving mix of cultures and similar to the more popular destinations of the middle-east like Cairo, Egypt or Rabat in Morocco. Down south are the Shia communities and Hezbollah strongholds. These parts are packed with people and resemble Iran with numerous large posters of the Ayatollah on display and the distinctive Irani architecture of buildings and mosques all over.
But head east and you’ll find yourself in Bourj Hammoud, the Armenian quarters of the city! Armenians make up around 4% of Lebanon but have been enthralled with the region for millennia perhaps since Tigranes the Great (Armenian King) conquered the Phoenician empire (modern day Lebanon) in approx 83BC. There was also a huge influx of Armenians into Lebanon following the Armenian genocide of 1915. In these quarters, you’ll find the one and only Bastermo Mano serving the best Shawarma you’ll ever have in your life!
On offer are three different kinds of Shawarma: beef, chicken and the Armenian special – Soujouk! Soujouk is a dry spicy sausage enjoyed from the Balkans to the Middle East, all the way to Central Asia. Traditionally prepared with ground beef and spices such as cumin, salt, paprika, and garlic, the sausage is dried for at least three weeks before consumption. I have tried Soujouk many times all over the world, usually cut into small pieces as a side, or served with breakfast, but the geniuses at Bastermo Mano, turned the popular food into a colossal chunk of meat for Shawarma!
From my very first bite of this, I knew I was in love. The soujouk was packed with flavour, with the right amount of chilli and smokeyness you get from cured meat. The texture was also divine, somehow it was soft and not too chewy, which dry meat often has the tendency of falling into. Inside the wrap was just pickles and tomato, not even any sauce. The flavour of the soujouk is so strong and its juicyness means it needs hardly any condiments for you to enjoy.
Whilst Bastermo had introduced something new and special into my life, that didn’t mean I couldn’t enjoy the traditional chicken and beef shawarmas. These were also absolutely phenomenal. The succulent meats were just so flavourful and juicy.
chicken 
beef
The great thing about this place is that the recipe has been tried and tested for so long that they know what works together best. There is no, ‘all salad and all sauces’ broad brush stroke to all the meats, there is a meticulous plan for each wrap.
Inside the chicken shawarma came the finest garlic sauce, pickles, salad and chips!
Meanwhile the beef was fused with coriander, onions, slightly cooked tomatoes, pickles and tahini! Every single wrap was just perfect. Take me back!
These guys probably make thousands of shawarma wraps a day, but every single one is made with love, affection and attention to detail. Over the years they have mastered what works well and have enforced their recipe so well.
PRICING
Chicken – 6500 Lebanese Pounds ($4.30) approx £3.50
Beef – 6500 Lebanese Pounds ($4.30) approx £3.50
Soujouk – 6000 Lebanese Pounds ($4.00) approx £3.26
HALAL INDEX
Lebanon is a majority Muslim country but there is a substantial Christian population. Like other Arab countries, you cannot assume all food is halal, it’s always best to check with the food provider. Bastermo Mano is in the Armenian quarters where there is a majority Christian population but this restaurant is completely halal!